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	<title>Bonsai Ireland</title>
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	<description>Information on Bonsai, Japanese Gardening, Art and Culture</description>
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		<title>Lazy Sunday morning bonsai</title>
		<link>http://www.bonsai.ie/lazy-sunday-morning-bonsai/</link>
		<comments>http://www.bonsai.ie/lazy-sunday-morning-bonsai/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 May 2012 08:51:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Paul Masterson</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bugs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lazy gardener]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bonsai.ie/?p=2738</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[That lazy Sunday morning, just me and the trees chillin. Especially good is that lazy Sunday morning with the bright sunshine, dappled breeze, no rain when your feeling kinda of wrecked from the busy Saturday weeding the driveway or what ever other vigorous activity you enjoy doing. I kinda like it, as the Monday blues are taking a break, thoughts of that long commute are sunk deep in my head. So on that lazy Sunday morning, chillin with the bonsai, what do you like to do? Me I like to potter, picking out that young ambitious weed that got missed, you know the type with great aspirations of fulfilling the pot! Then spending some time checking to see that ER is not needed and no panics. A number of years ago when I lived in the city, I went away for a number of weeks only to find when I got back an invasion of cannibal bugs, scale insects sucking the sap out of my elms. These required isolation and treatment with menthylated spirits, and then a soft wash to make them feel slightly better, unfortunately some didn&#8217;t make it. So this cannibal bug was my number one Sunday morning chillin with the trees target. I say was my target, as I am no longer live in the city, a townie (living in the city) you&#8217;ll find this expression from the natives in the country, much the same way as we Dublin people have tags for our country cousins. Living in the country with has its advantages when it comes to ...]]></description>
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		<title>Growing white pine bonsai</title>
		<link>http://www.bonsai.ie/growing-white-pine-bonsai/</link>
		<comments>http://www.bonsai.ie/growing-white-pine-bonsai/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Apr 2012 10:49:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Craig Coussins</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles by Craig Coussins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pinus]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bonsai.ie/?p=2725</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There are many varieties of white-pine (Pinus parviflora and pentaphylla), but all have one thing in common the white, central or stomatic band down the length of the leaf or needle. The popular white-pine bonsai came from China, Japan and elsewhere in the Pacific Asian-rim area. They are generally styled very simply, with a twist or two in the trunk, and invariably grafted onto a black-pine base, which is stronger.  Some varieties have very dense needle growth, while others have very short needle clusters. However, all are Pinus parviflora, with many various cultivar, including Kokono, Miyajima and Brevifolia. The difference between the white pine and other pine species is that the white-pine has a cluster of five needles around each bud. Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) and Black-pines (Pinus thunbergii) have two clusters of needles, and some species such as Red-pine (Pinus densiflora), can have clusters of two or three needles, depending on variety. The white-pines natural growth habit is low and spreading, while as a bonsai it can take any shape. The common style however, is a pyramid form, with the branches rising in clearly defined steps to the apex, or tip of the tree. Watering Pines Pines need semi-dry conditions in the winter, and the soil should be kept slightly damp in the growing season. Pine bonsai do not like very wet conditions. Only spray the needles from summer to early autumn, in the morning and late evening. &#160;  Next Article: Bud development in Pines &#160; &#160;   This post was written by Craig ...]]></description>
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		<title>Fuchsia in New Zealand</title>
		<link>http://www.bonsai.ie/fuchsia-in-new-zealand/</link>
		<comments>http://www.bonsai.ie/fuchsia-in-new-zealand/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Apr 2012 10:05:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Geoff Bryant</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles by Geoff Bryant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fuchsia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Japanese Gardens]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bonsai.ie/?p=2683</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Fuchsia (named after Leonhard Fuchs, a 16th century German botanist) is a genus of over 100 species of shrubs and small trees. Although there are four New Zealand native species (colensoi, excorticata, perscandens and procumbens) and one from Tahiti, the vast bulk of the genus occurs in Central and South America.  Think of fuchsias and chances are the fancy garden hybrids come to mind first. Showy as they are, it is not difficult to see they are related to wild species such as Fuchsia magellanica, Fuchsia denticulata and Fuchsia triphylla.  Some species, however, are less easy to distinguish. Our common native tree fuchsia (Fuchsia excorticata) has fuchsia-like flowers, though it can be hard to see the connection with the garden plants when it is not in bloom. But the likes of Fuchsia arborescens from Central America, with its panicles of tiny flowers, scarcely matches the common idea of a fuchsia.  The most widely grown of New Zealand&#8217;s native species is Fuchsia procumbens and it too is quite unlike the garden cultivars. It is a low spreading plant with small rounded leaves and can be very hard to pick as a fuchsia until it flowers. Indeed, my initial experience of the plant was with cultivated specimens and I have to admit that I didn&#8217;t immediately recognise wild plants when I first saw them.  This species was discovered in Northland in 1834 by Richard Cunningham. (some authorities call him Robert; in any case he should not be confused with his better known ...]]></description>
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		<title>Keeping your bonsai healthy</title>
		<link>http://www.bonsai.ie/keeping-your-bonsai-healthy/</link>
		<comments>http://www.bonsai.ie/keeping-your-bonsai-healthy/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Apr 2012 11:12:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Craig Coussins</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Articles by Craig Coussins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[feeding bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grow Your Own Bonsai]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bonsai.ie/?p=2658</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In general, every two weeks feed bonsai with a high-nitrogen fertilizer from late spring, and then in summer feed them with a balanced fertilizer, stopping for four weeks during the hottest part of the summer and starting again in late summer with a low-nitrogen or tomato fertilizer. High-nitrogen fertilizer feeds leaves and buds, and low-nitrogen fertilizer feeds twigs, roots, trunks and branches. Spray bonsai with foliar feed every two weeks in spring, and mist the foliage with water in the warm summer to keep the humidity levels up. To avoid lush or soft growth initially, such as in pines or maples, use a zero-based nitrogen fertilizer, 0-10-10 or at the worst a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as tomato fertilizer at the beginning of the season. to get bright autumn colours in maples, do not feed them more than twice in the entire season. It is important to remember that using liquid feeds allows the food to pass quickly through the soil, and if the soil is correct, then some will be retained during the feeding process. While watering during rain is sometimes unavoidable, soil and foliar-feeding of bonsai with large canopies of foliage during rain is not a good idea, as the water will wash through the soil much faster. Small trees can be immersed in a bucket or sink filled with feed, and when the bubbles stop rising the tree will have received sufficient food  and water. Do not do this every day if you have outdoor trees. On the other hand it may ...]]></description>
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		<title>The Art of Creative Pruning</title>
		<link>http://www.bonsai.ie/the-art-of-creative-pruning/</link>
		<comments>http://www.bonsai.ie/the-art-of-creative-pruning/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Mar 2012 19:55:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Paul Masterson</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Book Reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Japanese Gardens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pruning]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bonsai.ie/?p=2646</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Decorative tree pruning brings innovation and artistry to gardens. It has something for all tastes, including sophisticated sculptural trees, modernist bumpy hedges, boxwood balls and lollipops. Author Jake Hobson outlines an approach to topiary that is more creative than traditional and positively encourages out-of-the box thinking. Instead of peacocks and rabbits, you will see boxwood shaped to reveal Russian dolls, trees snipped to resemble the top tiers of a wedding cake, and hedges carved with graffiti. All the practical considerations are here as well, including pruning to improve a view, remedial pruning to fix problems, and pruning fruit trees to increase yield. Nothing brings a touch of artistry to the garden like ornamental pruning, and a series of deliberate cuts can create landscapes and evoke faraway places. All that&#8217;s needed to recreate the effect in the garden are a sharp pair of pruners, some imagination, and the instruction found in The Art of Creative Pruning. Drawing on both eastern and western styles, author Jake Hobson moves beyond the traditional, and teaches a whole new approach to ornamental pruning which will appeal to modern sensibilities. Complete with spectacular photographs and well-illustrated step-by-step projects, this book will have everyone reaching for their secateurs! Jake Hobson worked in a traditional Japanese nursery in the outskirts of Osaka, Japan, after completing a degree in Sculpture at London’s Slade School of Fine Arts. A keen observer of the artistry of gardens, Jake now runs his own pruning equipment and consultancy business, and experiments with mixing pruning ...]]></description>
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		<item>
		<title>Selecting Appropriate Scrolls for Bonsai Display</title>
		<link>http://www.bonsai.ie/selecting-appropriate-scrolls-for-bonsai-display/</link>
		<comments>http://www.bonsai.ie/selecting-appropriate-scrolls-for-bonsai-display/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Mar 2012 22:26:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Japanese Calligraphy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Japanese art]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bonsai.ie/?p=2605</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A 表具師 Hyougushi is an artisan that works in paper, textiles, glue, and wood to create a variety of products. The two primary products made by a Hyougushi associated with bonsai display, are 掛け軸 kakejiku (hanging wall scrolls) and 屏風 byoubu (folding screens/partitions). The reader will be introduced to the methodology of judging scroll formality, how formality is related to different scroll designs, and some rules of thumb regarding the cloths and the pictures themselves. The principles that the Hyougushi uses to design the frame for the scroll is entirely different from the principles used to display the scroll with a bonsai or viewing stone. When I first started working professionally as a Hyougushi, I understood little of the needs of the bonsai artist. It led me to learn new ideas, methodologies and ways of thinking to understand how to make scrolls more suited to the bonsaiist’s tastes. The system of display that I have begun to study is called 雅道Gaddou or the “Way of Elegance/Refinement”. This display style focuses on the display of shohin bonsai and utilizes a very simple system of determining the formality of the display based upon every element. This article will only focus on the elements of the scroll in determining its use for a display. Additionally, the reader should realize that there are many more different types of scroll styles. Only the most basic elements of the scrolls will be presented to provide the bonsai artist with the ability to recognize the level of ...]]></description>
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